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The science · 9 min read

The Science of Red Light and Collagen: A Deep Dive

Cytochrome c oxidase, ATP, nitric oxide, and you.

January 14, 2025 · The Radia Atelier

If you want the mechanism in detail — not the marketing version — this is the one to read.

The chromophore: cytochrome c oxidase

Inside every cell sits the mitochondrion, and inside every mitochondrion sits a series of protein complexes that move electrons to produce ATP. Complex IV — cytochrome c oxidase — has an absorption peak around 600–900 nm. When red and near-infrared light hit, the enzyme dissociates inhibitory nitric oxide, electron flow accelerates, and ATP output climbs.

Downstream: fibroblasts get to work

Fibroblasts in the dermis are responsible for collagen and elastin production. With more available ATP and modulated reactive oxygen species, transcription of type I and type III collagen genes upregulates. Studies show measurable increases in dermal density within 8–12 weeks.

Why 633 nm and 830 nm specifically

These wavelengths sit in the "optical window" where light penetrates skin most efficiently. Shorter wavelengths scatter near the surface; longer wavelengths heat water without reaching cells. 633 nm and 830 nm reach the fibroblasts you actually want to talk to.

From the atelier

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Frequently asked

Why not just take collagen supplements?
Different mechanism. Oral collagen provides amino acid substrate. LED triggers fibroblasts to actually synthesise new collagen in skin. Stack both if you want.